where i am at, the beach runs east and west, so the sun rises on the left side of the beach and sets on the right side. we can sleep for $5 and eat for $1. sure we are not dining with the big boys, but we are filling our guts and moving on to the hammock, moving on to the next book.
one of the books i finished yesterday is called salvador by joan didion. she visited this country, in 1982 for two weeks during war time and wrote of a place where the interior was impenetrable and any perception could be dissolved into its reverse. she boarded her plane tense, nerves shivering. i, on the other hand read it on the buses and beaches of this country calmed by its kindness and waves.
true, i have not attempted to penetrate its interior. we entered in the south, first sliding down the mountain top chill of antigua, guatemala to the border where guards laid on their backs under palm trees, heads resting on guns. no one came rushing to help us
cross the empty space between countries. even the money changer with his wad of dollars simply asked from where he stood, if we wanted to exchange quetzals to american dollars, the money of el salvador since 2001. no line at immigration; no stamping of the passport; no one yelling, asking us where we are going; no one racing to guide us to their bus. this isn`t tijuana or tel aviv. it is the back door crossing between two central american countries no longer embedded in civil wars.
the pace is different here. i noticed it first in the communication between bus attendant and bus driver. in guatemala the "da le" becomes one syllable fired multiple times with a background of hand beating against metal casing. in el salvador, the "da le" almost stretches to three syllables with a possible precise whistle to follow. i haven`t yet witnessed the rushed beating of the bus. neither have they sped along the coast li
ne alert of the pressing competition from behind. but i have only been here for two days. and i haven`t gone far. and i probably wont during this trip.
there is a cold front we are insulated from here on this southern beach stretching between east in west. in the mountain region i wanted to explore it reached 2.9 degrees celsius. in veracruz mexico and tajumulco, guatemala there is snow. and in the latter there was a country wide black out last wednesday. i think we will stay put.
(off to buy some fruit and head back up the road to our sleepy sea side town, el zonte. we had to wait an hour and a half to catch a bus to come into this bigger town called la libertad to be able to use the internet and do a bit of food shopping, decided we needed more than bread, tortillas, beans and cheese in our diet.)
one of the books i finished yesterday is called salvador by joan didion. she visited this country, in 1982 for two weeks during war time and wrote of a place where the interior was impenetrable and any perception could be dissolved into its reverse. she boarded her plane tense, nerves shivering. i, on the other hand read it on the buses and beaches of this country calmed by its kindness and waves.
true, i have not attempted to penetrate its interior. we entered in the south, first sliding down the mountain top chill of antigua, guatemala to the border where guards laid on their backs under palm trees, heads resting on guns. no one came rushing to help us
cross the empty space between countries. even the money changer with his wad of dollars simply asked from where he stood, if we wanted to exchange quetzals to american dollars, the money of el salvador since 2001. no line at immigration; no stamping of the passport; no one yelling, asking us where we are going; no one racing to guide us to their bus. this isn`t tijuana or tel aviv. it is the back door crossing between two central american countries no longer embedded in civil wars.the pace is different here. i noticed it first in the communication between bus attendant and bus driver. in guatemala the "da le" becomes one syllable fired multiple times with a background of hand beating against metal casing. in el salvador, the "da le" almost stretches to three syllables with a possible precise whistle to follow. i haven`t yet witnessed the rushed beating of the bus. neither have they sped along the coast li
ne alert of the pressing competition from behind. but i have only been here for two days. and i haven`t gone far. and i probably wont during this trip.there is a cold front we are insulated from here on this southern beach stretching between east in west. in the mountain region i wanted to explore it reached 2.9 degrees celsius. in veracruz mexico and tajumulco, guatemala there is snow. and in the latter there was a country wide black out last wednesday. i think we will stay put.
(off to buy some fruit and head back up the road to our sleepy sea side town, el zonte. we had to wait an hour and a half to catch a bus to come into this bigger town called la libertad to be able to use the internet and do a bit of food shopping, decided we needed more than bread, tortillas, beans and cheese in our diet.)
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